Esperance on the Canal du Midi

Six nights, Béziers to Homps, for up to six guests in three equal suites. Every week is a private charter, so the barge is never shared.

As seen on Rick Steves' Europe (PBS) and in The New York Times • Family-owned barging since 1982

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Private Charter Pricing · 2027
Rates on request USD · 6 nights
2027 season runs April to October. Dates on request.
Charter only: this barge does not sell individual cabins.
Fully refundable within 24 hours
25 percent deposit holds your week
Balance due 90 days before departure
Most guests reserve 9 to 12 months ahead. Your deposit holds the week while Kim confirms with the barge owner.

A week in Languedoc, with nothing to arrange

On Sunday afternoon your crew meets you at the station in Béziers or Narbonne and drives you to the barge. There are six guests at most, four crew, and a champagne welcome waiting on deck. From there the week runs itself.

For six nights the Esperance is your hotel, your restaurant, and your view. You wake where you choose, walk or cycle the towpath when you feel like it, and sit down each evening to a meal cooked aboard and paired with wines from the villages you passed that afternoon.

The Canal du Midi was cut in the 1600s and runs under a roof of plane trees between vineyards, stone villages, and Cathar hill country. Carcassonne, Minerve, Pézénas, and Narbonne are all inside a short drive, and your guide has each day arranged before you wake up.

Elegance photo 1

Trip details

Price
Whole-barge charter, rates on request.
Deposit
Deposit set once rates are confirmed. Balance due 90 days before departure.
Length
Six nights, Sunday to Saturday.
Season
April to October, 2027. Dates on request.
Guests
Up to six guests, plus a crew of four.
Cabins
Three suites, all the same size at about 200 square feet, each with a private shower room.
Route
Canal du Midi, Languedoc. Béziers to Homps, through Capestang, Le Somail, and Argens-Minervois.
Getting there
The crew meets you around 4pm at Béziers or Narbonne station and drives you to the barge.

What's included

Want more details about this trip?

Request a free detailed itinerary. Inside: your day-by-day schedule, the villages and stops along the way, seasonal packing notes, and Kim's insider tips for making the most of every day aboard. Easy to share with friends and family.

Life on board

Your home for the week: the Esperance

The Esperance started life in 1968 as a working barge carrying wine between Bordeaux and Sète. She was rebuilt as a private yacht from 2002 and fully refurbished again in 2024, which brought new bicycles, a new hot tub, new wooden decks, and a new forward suite. She runs 100 feet long and about 16.5 feet across, with a crew of four for no more than six guests. Above deck there is a sun deck with Bimini shade, six loungers, a dining table, and the hot tub, plus a covered wheelhouse with seating where guests are welcome to sit with the captain. Below, the salon, bar, and dining room run as one open room with ten windows and solid teak furniture, and the galley is open, so you can stand with the chef and pick up a recipe or two.

The Esperance deck plan. Three suites named Romaniu, Farigola, and Sauvia, all the same size at about 200 square feet, each with a king bed or two twins and a private shower room. Ceiling height runs from 6 feet 3 inches to 7 feet. Steps aboard: five from the deck down to the salon, five from the deck down to the stern suite, and no steps from the salon to the other two.

The barge and cabins

What makes this week different

image00012-Esperance-May-2024-dining-crop-smaller
An open galley, and a chef cooking for six
The galley is open to the salon, so nothing about the food is hidden. Guests who want to can stand alongside the chef for an informal lesson, then sit down to the result an hour later. Regional wines come with lunch and dinner, the bar stays open, and dietary needs are handled quietly if you tell us at booking.
Esperance-lock-2024
A hot tub, a sun deck, and six bikes
The 2024 refurbishment gave the Esperance new wooden decks, a new hot tub, and six touring bicycles, two of them electric. Six loungers sit under the Bimini shade with the dining table beside them. There is no swimming pool aboard, so if a pool is on your list, say so and Kim will point you at a different boat.
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Cathar country, one short drive at a time
Carcassonne, Minerve, Pézénas, Narbonne, and the Gorges de la Cesse all sit within a short drive of the canal. The minivan takes you out after lunch and brings you back before dinner, so you see the region without ever changing hotels.

Guest experiences with French Canal Boat Company

These comments are from FCBC guests and are not attributed to a particular barge. Source: French Canal Boat Company.

"Our stay on the Esperance was nothing short of exceptional. Every detail exceeded our expectations, the accommodations were spacious, immaculate, and wonderfully comfortable."
C.A., September 2025
"Our week on the Esperance was one of the most memorable experiences of our lives. The barge was beautiful, with spacious, well appointed staterooms and wonderful outdoor spaces for dining, relaxing, and soaking in the hot tub."
J.M., September 2025
"It was truly the trip of a lifetime. It was a perfect blend of barging, relaxation, wonderful excursions, exceptional culinary experiences, immersion into the culture and history of the region."
Michael and Janice B.

Featured and recommended by

PBS
Rick Steves'
Europe
The New York Times

Day-by-day itinerary

Béziers to Homps: six nights on the Canal du Midi, with a guided excursion most afternoons into the villages, vineyards, and hill towns of Languedoc. Every day is arranged. Nothing below is mandatory.
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Route map to come. Ask Kim for the current Béziers to Homps chart.
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Day 1
Sunday
Béziers: coming aboard
Your crew meets you at Narbonne station around 4pm and drives you to the barge, moored at Béziers.
  • Champagne welcome on deck and time to settle into your suite
  • First dinner aboard, cooked by your chef
  • An optional stroll along the canal before bed
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Day 2
Monday
Béziers to Capestang, by way of Colombiers
A morning cruise, with the towpath alongside for anyone who wants to walk or cycle.
  • A stop at Colombiers before lunch
  • The afternoon passage through the Malpas tunnel, cut straight through the hill
  • Mooring for the night at Capestang
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Day 3
Tuesday
Capestang to La Croisade, with an afternoon in Pézénas
A morning cruise and a light lunch aboard, then out by minivan.
  • Pézénas: paved streets, craft workshops, and shopfronts that have not changed much in centuries
  • The town where Molière lived in the 17th century
  • Back aboard at La Croisade for dinner
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Day 4
Wednesday
La Croisade to Le Somail, then Narbonne or the olive mill
Le Somail is a small canal hamlet with a very large second hand bookshop, which is worth an hour on its own.
  • A guided tour of Narbonne in the afternoon: a major pre-Roman city, the Archbishop's Palace, the museum, the Roman road, and the covered market
  • Or take the alternative: the Mediterranean coast and the l'Oulibo olive mill, with an olive oil and tapenade tasting
  • Dinner aboard at Le Somail
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Day 5
Thursday
Le Somail to Argens-Minervois, with Minerve in the afternoon
A morning cruise with plenty of chances to step off, walk, cycle, and look around the villages along the way.
  • The Gorges de la Cesse, then Minerve itself, a Cathar stronghold on a rocky outcrop
  • A wine tasting on the way back
  • Mooring for the night at Argens-Minervois
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Day 6
Friday
Argens-Minervois to Homps, with Carcassonne or Lagrasse
The last cruising day runs through traditional and double locks, which are good places to step off and watch.
  • A short drive to the Cité de Carcassonne, a UNESCO World Heritage site
  • Guests who have already seen Carcassonne go to Lagrasse instead, one of France's listed prettiest villages, known for pottery and craft workshops
  • Farewell dinner aboard at Homps
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Day 7
Saturday
Homps: farewells
Breakfast aboard, then your chauffeured transfer at 9am to the drop-off point arranged before you travelled.
  • Departure arrangements made to fit your onward travel
  • Say goodbye to the crew who have been quietly running everything for a week

Good to know

Straight talk before you book. A hotel barge is a particular kind of trip, and it does not suit everyone. Here is what to expect, so nobody arrives picturing a week it was never going to be.
The suites are generous for a barge, and still boat cabins.
All three run about 200 square feet, which is roomy by barge standards, and each has its own shower room. Ceiling height runs from 6 feet 3 inches to 7 feet, so anyone over six feet tall will duck in places. Picture a well-fitted yacht rather than a resort suite, with a new view out the window most mornings.
Summer can be hot, and there is no pool.
July and August in Languedoc average highs near 29 C, with stretches above 30 C and the occasional spike close to 38 C. The barge answers that with air conditioning controlled separately in each cabin, shade on deck, and a hot tub, but there is no swimming pool aboard. May, June, September, and October are the gentler months.
The pace is slow, and that is the point.
A barge moves at walking speed, and some days you cover only a few miles. If you want a packed schedule and a new town every night, this is not that trip.
Seasickness is barely a factor.
This is a canal, not open water. The surface is flat, the barge moves slowly, and it moors every night.
Steps, honestly counted.
Five steps from the deck down to the salon, five steps from the deck down to the stern suite, and no steps at all between the salon and the other two suites. There is still a gangway to board. Call Kim before you book if stairs are a real concern.
Wi-Fi works, mostly.
There is Wi-Fi aboard and it is fine for email and photos, but it drops out in places along the route. Treat the quiet patches as part of the week.
Children are welcome, because the boat is yours.
The Esperance books as a whole-barge charter, so there are no other guests to consider. Barging suits kids from about age eight up, and on a private charter we can take younger children. Tell us their ages and we will be honest about whether the week will land for your family.

Booking terms

You can cancel within 24 hours after your initial booking payment and receive a full refund. Contact us within that window. After 24 hours, payments are non-refundable if you cancel, including for illness or inability to travel. You may substitute passengers by contacting us. If the barge owner cancels your cruise for any reason, we will provide a full refund. This differs from a route change where the trip still operates. Read the full Booking Terms and Conditions.
Travel insurance is strongly recommended and not included in the price.
Charter rates for the 2027 season are on request. A deposit is required to confirm your week, and it is set once the rates are confirmed. Balance due 90 days before departure.
The Esperance accommodates up to six guests and books as a whole-barge private charter only. She does not run cabin-by-cabin departures; barges in our fleet that do are marked on the departures page.
The 2027 season runs April to October. Dates are on request rather than a published schedule.
Prices quoted in USD.
Children are welcome from about age eight, and younger by arrangement, since every Esperance booking is a private charter.

Cancellation policy, in plain English

If we cancel
You can cancel within 24 hours after your initial booking payment and receive a full refund. Contact us within that window. After 24 hours, payments are non-refundable if you cancel, including for illness or inability to travel. You may substitute passengers by contacting us.
If the owner cancels
If the barge owner cancels your cruise for any reason, we will provide a full refund. This differs from a route change where the trip still operates.
If the route changes
Lock repairs, drought, flooding or unsafe conditions may require an alternative route. A route change does not by itself give you a right to cancel for a refund. If the owner cancels the cruise itself, the full-refund policy applies.
Payments
A 25% deposit is due when booking, with the balance due 90 days before departure. Bookings made within 90 days require full payment. Your checkout shows the exact amounts and due dates.
Travel insurance
We strongly recommend travel protection for non-refundable trip costs and medical evacuation. Cover and exclusions depend on the policy you buy. Read the policy and check with the insurer; accepting our booking terms does not buy or decline insurance.

Frequently asked questions

The questions guests actually ask before their first barge trip. If yours is not here, call Kim at 888-229-2315.

The Esperance and This Route

What are the cabins and bathrooms actually like?

The Esperance has three suites, named Romaniu, Farigola, and Sauvia, and they are all the same size at about 200 square feet. Each takes a king bed or two twins and has its own shower room, so nobody draws the short straw. Ceiling height runs from 6 feet 3 inches to 7 feet, which is generous for a barge but lower than a house. Every suite has its own air conditioning and heating control, a safe, a hair dryer, robes, and toiletries, and housekeeping refreshes them daily.

Can we book just a cabin on the Esperance?

No. The Esperance books as a whole-barge private charter only: one group of up to six guests takes the entire vessel and crew. She does not run shared departures, so there are no individual cabins to buy. If a cabin on a shared departure is what you want, several barges in our fleet offer them, and Kim will point you to the right one. What the charter gives you in exchange: no strangers, no shared table, and no schedule but your own.

Who is the crew, and who captains the Esperance?

Four crew look after six guests: captain, chef, guide, and hostess. Mathias Gilles is the owner and captain of record for the barge, and guests in 2025 sailed with a captain named Victor, so we do not promise a particular name until Kim has checked your week. Call and she will tell you who is scheduled. Kim does not own or operate the Esperance; she knows the boat and the owner and books it for her guests.

How old is the barge, and has it been updated?

The hull was built in 1968 to carry wine between Bordeaux and Sète. It was rebuilt as a private yacht from 2002 and fully refurbished again in 2024, which added new bicycles, a new hot tub, new wooden decks, and a new forward suite. She is 100 feet long and about 16.5 feet across.

What if there is not enough water in the canal to cruise?

It is uncommon, but canal levels can occasionally limit how far the barge travels in a given week, usually after a dry spell. When it happens, the crew rebuild the week around the same villages, vineyards, and meals by road, and guests who have been through it still describe their week as one of their best. We would rather you hear this from us now than be surprised by it. Travel insurance is a sensible backstop for the things none of us control.

What makes the Canal du Midi different from the other routes?

This is the warm south. The canal was cut in the 1600s and runs under plane trees between vineyards, stone villages, and Cathar hill country. In one week you can be inside the walls of Carcassonne, on the rock at Minerve, in the Roman streets of Narbonne, and in Pézénas where Molière lived, all within a short drive of the boat. Burgundy is cooler and quieter; the Midi has more sun, more history stacked on top of itself, and the Malpas tunnel.

What is there to do all day on this route?

Most days run the same shape: a morning cruise with the towpath alongside for walking or cycling, lunch aboard, then a guided excursion by minivan to a town, a tasting, or a site like Minerve or Carcassonne. Between those, the deck is yours. The hot tub, six loungers, and a shaded dining table are all up there, and nobody minds if you skip the afternoon and stay put.

Getting There

How do we get to the barge?

Most guests fly into Paris and take the train south, or fly directly into the region. Your crew meets you around 4pm on Sunday at Béziers or Narbonne station and drives you to the barge in the air conditioned minivan. Kim sends the exact meeting details well before departure.

I am nervous about the trains and transfers. How hard is the travel day?

Easier than most trips you have taken. One suitcase, one meeting point, and the crew takes it from there. You need to reach Béziers or Narbonne station by mid afternoon on Sunday, and the transfer to the barge is included. Kim sends exact meeting details well before departure, and she will help you plan nights in Paris or on the coast on either side if you want them.

What time does the week start and finish?

The crew meets you around 4pm on Sunday, and the week ends after breakfast on Saturday with a chauffeured transfer at 9am to the drop-off point you arranged in advance. Six nights, Sunday to Saturday.

Can we drive and park?

Yes, it is possible to drive and park at the boarding ports. Get in touch and we will give you the specifics for your departure point.

On Board Life

What is the food and wine like?

All meals are cooked fresh each day by your chef using local, seasonal ingredients: breakfast, lunch, dinner, and snacks. Regional wines are poured at lunch and dinner, and the bar aboard is open. The galley is open to the salon, so guests who want to can join the chef for an informal lesson rather than waiting to be served.

Will I get bored?

A fair question for a boat that moves at walking speed. Here is the honest answer: the slowness is the product. Every day has a guided excursion, a market, a tasting, or a village worth wandering, and the hours in between belong to you: read on deck, cycle the towpath, help the captain steer, or do nothing at all, on purpose. Guests who need a packed schedule should ask Kim about the more excursion-heavy routes. Nobody comes home saying the week felt long.

There are strangers living on the boat with us. Is that awkward?

The crew lives aboard, and by Tuesday they will feel like part of the trip. They have their own quarters and their own rhythm; you will never trip over them, and they will never hover. What you actually get is a captain who knows every bridge by name, a chef cooking for six instead of six hundred, and a guide who already knows what you liked yesterday. Privacy when you want it, company when you want that.

I do not speak French. Will that be a problem?

Not at all. Your crew speaks English, every excursion is guided in English, and the chef translates the cheese board. If you want to try your bonjour at a market stall, the vendors are patient and it usually earns you a smile.

Can I stay in touch with home?

Yes. There is Wi-Fi aboard the Esperance, and cell coverage along most of the route, enough for email, photos, and a call with the grandkids. It is limited in places, so expect the occasional slow patch and treat it as part of the cure. Every suite also has a satellite TV and DVD player, a sound system, and 220V outlets.

Are there bikes, and what else is aboard?

Six touring bicycles with helmets, two of them electric, all new in the 2024 refurbishment. The Canal du Midi towpath is flat and shaded, which makes for easy riding alongside the barge between locks. On deck there is a hot tub, six loungers under Bimini shade, and a dining table. The covered wheelhouse has seating and guests are welcome to sit there with the captain.

What happens at the locks?

Locks are part of the fun. The Canal du Midi has plenty of them, including double locks on the last cruising day, and the barge rises and drops as it passes through. They are easy places to step off and walk, and the towpath runs beside them, so you can stroll ahead and rejoin the barge further along.

Is there a swimming pool?

No. The Esperance has a hot tub on the sun deck, installed new in 2024, but no swimming pool. If a pool matters to your group, tell Kim and she will point you at a barge that has one.

Can you handle dietary needs and allergies?

Yes. Tell us at the time of booking. With four guests at most and the chef herself taking the request, dietary requirements and preferences are handled personally rather than passed down a kitchen line.

Do I need to dress up for dinner?

No. Dinner is a gourmet event, but the dress code is relaxed: think smart casual, the way you would dress for a nice dinner at a friend\’s home. No jackets required, no gowns, no fuss. Comfortable shoes matter more than anything formal.

Comfort and Concerns

Will I get seasick?

This is the question people whisper, and the answer is the best news on this page. Canals are not the ocean. The water is flat, sheltered, and often narrower than a country road. There are no waves, no swell, and no rocking at night because the barge always moors for the evening. If you have avoided cruising because of motion sickness, a canal barge is the boat that was built for you.

What is the bathroom situation, honestly?

Every suite has its own shower room with a shower, sink, and toilet. You never share facilities with other guests. Suites and shower rooms are smaller than a hotel room ashore, closer to a well-fitted yacht than a resort suite, and housekeeping refreshes them daily. Robes, toiletries, and a hair dryer are provided.

I am not very mobile. Can I still enjoy this?

Barging is one of the most accessible ways to see rural Europe, and on the Esperance we can count the steps for you: five from the deck down to the salon, five from the deck down to the stern suite, and none at all between the salon and the other two suites. There is still a gangway to board, and there is no elevator. If stairs are a real concern, call Kim before booking and she will tell you plainly whether this barge is the right fit.

What if I have a medical issue or take daily medications?

You are never far from help. The barge travels through inhabited countryside, moors in or near villages every night, and a crew member with local knowledge is always aboard. Pharmacies are common in French towns, and your captain can reach emergency services from anywhere on the route. Bring your medications in your carry-on, plus a copy of your prescriptions. Tell Kim about any condition when you book so the crew is prepared, quietly and without fuss.

What about the summer heat?

July and August in Languedoc are hot: average highs near 29 C, stretches above 30 C, and the occasional spike close to 38 C. The Esperance answers that better than most barges. Every cabin has its own air conditioning and heating control, the sun deck has Bimini shade, and there is a hot tub. There is no swimming pool aboard. The cruising day is built around the heat too: mornings on the shaded deck, excursions timed away from the worst of it, cold drinks always at hand. If you feel the heat, ask Kim about May, June, September, and October.

Is this suitable for children?

Barging suits kids from about age eight and up, and because the Esperance books as a whole-barge charter, the boat is your family’s alone and we can accommodate younger children too. Tell us their ages and we will help you decide honestly. The hot tub and the bikes tend to win over anyone who was unsure.

Are we too old for this?

No, and you would be in good company. Most barge guests are in their 50s, 60s, 70s and beyond. The pace is unhurried by design: the barge moves at about four miles per hour, and there is no packing and unpacking between hotels. You settle in once and France comes to you. Guests who want more activity can walk or cycle the towpath beside the boat; guests who want none can watch it all from a deck chair.

Are we likely to get seasick?

Very unlikely. Canals are flat, placid water, and the barge moves at a slow, steady pace. If you are prone to motion sickness on boats, the canal is about as gentle as it gets. There are no waves and no swell, and there is no rocking at night because the barge moors every evening. If motion sickness has kept you off cruise ships, this is the boat that was built for you.

Is it safe?

Yes. You are on flat, calm water in settled countryside, never far from a village. Your hosts handle every lock and mooring. On deck, the usual boat rules apply: mind the rails, wear sensible shoes, and take the towpath at your own pace. Children need supervision on deck, the same as at any waterfront.

Money, Tipping, and Terms

What does a week aboard the Esperance cost?

Charter rates for the 2027 season are on request. We do not publish a figure here until Kim has confirmed it with the barge owner, and we would rather say that plainly than quote you something we would have to take back. Call Kim at 888-229-2315 or request the detailed itinerary and she will come back with the rate for your dates.

How does tipping work? I do not want to get it wrong.

Simple and done once: the custom is a tip of about 5 to 10 percent of the cruise fare, given in cash to the captain at the end of the week, and the crew shares it. No nightly envelopes, no guessing at the bar. Bring euros for it, since cards do not work for crew tips.

Should I buy travel insurance?

Yes, we recommend it plainly, and so does every honest operator. A barge week is a significant purchase with a real cancellation schedule. Buy a policy soon after booking, and ask about Cancel For Any Reason coverage, which usually must be added within two to three weeks of your first payment.

Is my deposit safe? What happens after I pay it?

Kim confirms availability directly with the barge owner. A 25% deposit is due when booking, with the balance due 90 days before departure. Bookings made within 90 days require full payment. Your checkout shows the exact amounts and due dates. You can cancel within 24 hours after your initial booking payment and receive a full refund. Contact us within that window. After 24 hours, payments are non-refundable if you cancel, including for illness or inability to travel. You may substitute passengers by contacting us. If the barge owner cancels your cruise for any reason, we will provide a full refund. This differs from a route change where the trip still operates. Read the full Booking Terms and Conditions.

Do we need travel insurance?

We strongly recommend travel protection for non-refundable trip costs and medical evacuation. Cover and exclusions depend on the policy you buy. Read the policy and check with the insurer; accepting our booking terms does not buy or decline insurance. Read the full Booking Terms and Conditions.

Cancellations and Changes

What happens if I have to cancel?

You can cancel within 24 hours after your initial booking payment and receive a full refund. Contact us within that window. After 24 hours, payments are non-refundable if you cancel, including for illness or inability to travel. You may substitute passengers by contacting us. If the barge owner cancels your cruise for any reason, we will provide a full refund. This differs from a route change where the trip still operates. Lock repairs, drought, flooding or unsafe conditions may require an alternative route. A route change does not by itself give you a right to cancel for a refund. If the owner cancels the cruise itself, the full-refund policy applies. Read the full Booking Terms and Conditions.

What if you or the barge owner cancel the cruise?

If the barge owner cancels your cruise for any reason, we will provide a full refund. This differs from a route change where the trip still operates. Read the full Booking Terms and Conditions.

What if the canal closes because of weather or low water?

Lock repairs, drought, flooding or unsafe conditions may require an alternative route. A route change does not by itself give you a right to cancel for a refund. If the owner cancels the cruise itself, the full-refund policy applies. Read the full Booking Terms and Conditions.

Can I move my dates instead of cancelling?

You may substitute passengers by contacting us. The booking terms do not promise a refund or automatic credit for changing dates. Contact us about a requested change before making other travel arrangements. Read the full Booking Terms and Conditions.

Is there any way to book risk free?

You can cancel within 24 hours after your initial booking payment and receive a full refund. Contact us within that window. After 24 hours, payments are non-refundable if you cancel. Passenger substitutions are permitted. If the barge owner cancels your cruise for any reason, we will provide a full refund.

Want more details about this trip?

Request a free detailed itinerary. Inside: your day-by-day schedule, the villages and stops along the way, seasonal packing notes, and Kim's insider tips for making the most of every day aboard. Easy to share with friends and family.

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Check availability for Esperance

Private charter · the whole barge

The WeTravel booking and deposit checkout embeds here at launch. Guests will choose their week and place the deposit without leaving the page.

Until it is live, call Kim at  888-229-2315, or request the full itinerary to start the conversation.

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